Thursday, March 20, 2008

January 20th - The Ganges and Varanasi





We spend the rest of the afternoon on the terrace of the restaurant. The sun warms our faces and it is quite relaxing just sitting here. The waiters are very friendly and keep asking if everything is ok and to our taste. They serve hot drinks like chai or coffe in thermoses for each. For lunch I have a wonderfully delicious dish called "Haryana Kofta" (dumplings filling with cottage cheese and spinach). I love this dish so much that I will have 2 more in the next 2 days!

We decide to go and explore a bit of the city before it gets too dark. From the restaurant we notice that all the boats are tied up on the Ganges. The waiters tell us that a boat strike has been going on for the past few days that will probably last a week. The reason for this is that the goverment wants to add a tax to the boatmen to get more money from the tourists. The boatmen don't agree and think no one will want to pay that extra money and they will be out of jobs... While having lunch we see and hear 3 big boats go up and down the river shouting slogans... We hope they will achieve something. Since we have been in India we have witnessed 3 strikes! Apparently that is nothing... They are quite a few unions in the country.

As we walk along the ghats it is really calm and pleasant. People are sitting on the stairs, goats, monkeys and kids are playing. I am quite amazed at the amount of young Korean visitors. A few years ago it was mostly Israelis traveling to India. There are also many other nationalities of all ages including couples, families, groups visiting Varanasi...

Varanasi is one of the worlds oldest inhabited cities. It is said to have been an important cultural and religious center in northern India for several thousand years... The name Varanasi comes from its location between the two conluuences of Vara and Assi. Walking along the ghats with the level of the Ganges so low lets us see all the steps leading to the water. It must be a totally different feeling when the water level is higher and more of the steps are hidden. Now you can see over to the other side. The width of the Ganges here is quite impressive.

Varanasi is said to have about 100 ghats that are privatly owned and mostly used for bathing. Actually you can see people bathing at any time of the day, but mostly in the early morning.

Varansi is considered for most Hindus as the holiest place to die. Actually we did see quite a few older people here sitting on the steps of the ghats.. In Varanasi there are two places to be cremated, next to the Ganges on the banks of the river or in the burning towers run by electricity. We were told that to burn a body you need about 300 kg of wood. The ones that cannot affort to buy the wood are cremated in the towers. The cremations last all day.

We watch men getting their heads shaven and priests reciting prayer... We are allowed to watch bodies being burnt also, but not permitted to take any pictures. There is always someone coming up to you to explain what is going on (yes for free!). Children try to sell us little baskets of offering and a candle to put in the Ganges. I get one in the evening and make a wish and send it off. The atmosphere here is very special, very peaceful.

Before going back to our hotel for the night we watch a religious ceremony along the river open for everyone. It consists of about 8 priests performing rituals with burning lamps that they swing around chanting prayers. It looks quite nice as it is dark outside now. I notice an Indian guide speak Korean with is big group and am impressed.

Our first day ends by watching a north Indian dance called Kathak in the rooftop restaurant of our hotel. I am impressed at the amount of jingles the dancer is wearing, at least 10 rows on each foot!