We arrive in Kolkata in the late afternoon. This time we stand in line for the pre-paid taxis from the airport and get a friendly driver. We have a room booked in the hotel we have been trying to come to since last time. It a very unique place located on Sudder Street called the Fairlawn run by an English lady named Mrs Smith. You can find the interesting family and house history on:
http://www.fairlawnhotel.com/
It is located close to all the places of interest and has an advantage that many places do not have, a garden! There is also a nice and almost private living room and lovely couches to relax in. The building was built in 1783 and is located just 2 minutes by foot from the New Market, a labyrinth of shops to fill your hearts desire. The house is filled with stories about the place with newspaper and magazines articles hanging on the walls. You always have something to look at and read. There are also many photos of important people who’ve stayed there like Patrick Swayze while filming The City of Joy, as well as Dominique La Pierre, the author of the same book.
We already know where we will have dinner tonight… at the famous Aaheli Restaurant renown for its Bengali food. It is located just around the corner from New Market inside the Peerless Inn Hotel.
http://www.peerlesshotels.com/aaheli.html
When we reach the floor where the restaurant is located and see that there are two. We decide to go inside the one called Oceanic. It is decorated just like in a boat with rounded windows and big aquariums. As we sit down we see that a huge buffet being prepared… yummy! We decide to go for the buffet and to be able to try taste a bit of everything. There is a salad buffet, mix of continental and many cold Bengali specialites. On the other side is a whole row of pearl shaped stainless steal pots containing warm dishes. There are at least 6 different fish dishes with accompagnements. Everything is delicious! Bengalis are known for their desserts as well and we agree, they are really tasty. Our favorite (found all over India) is the warm Gulab Jammun though. In case you want to make your own…
http://www.indianfoodforever.com/desserts/gulab-jamun.html
The next day we spend all day visiting the city. Our night train to Varanasi leaves only at 8 p.m. After breakfast we set off on foot towards the Flower Market and Howrah brigde. It is Sunday morning the city is slowly waking up. We walk along the outside of Maidan Park (where big cricket matches are held) towards what I remember as the direction of the Flower Market. On my last trip to Kolkata I also walked around and thought I had a good memory of the geography… The roads have gotten alot wider it seems with alot more traffic. After asking our way around we found ourselves on some quiet side streets lined with big colonial houses located in lovely garden surrounded by high gates and guards. We come into a street where everyone is washing themselves outside and either having their hair cut or beards shaven. It is something we are not used to in Europe where most of these things are done behind closed doors.
Kolkata used to be the capital of British India in 1772 and very well to do. Today you somehow feel as if time has stood still here. There is a special atmosphere looking at the dirty and crumbling colonial buildings, the local transport of ancient buses and trams along with a heavy grey cloud hanging over the city.
Finally after walking along the train tracks for a while we spot the entrance to the flower market. This is one of the poorer areas of Kolkata where families have their homes in shabby tents along the tracks just below Howrah Bridge. Vendors are negociating masses of flowers. There are huge jute bags full of bright orange and yellow marigolds. You can find anything from roses, dahlias, jasmine, etc. There are rose petals by the kilo, strands of orange and yellow marigolds for the temples and weddings... A very bustling and colorful visit!
At the end of the market we reach the 700m long Howrah Bridge. It impresses us for its steel architecture and size. Built in 1937 it is said that 150'000 vehicles and about 4 million passengers daily move across this bridge spanning over the Hoogly River. It is strictly guarded and very difficult to take photos of. It takes us a while to walk to the other side, but this way you can best understand its full size.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Howrah_Bridge
Once on the other side we hail a taxi and make our way to the botanical gardens located at the other end of the city. It is a haven of tranquility for visitors and people living in the crowded city of 14 million (2001 sensus). The gardens were founded in 1786 along the east and west of the Hoogly River. Interestingly it was here that the first trials were made for the famous Indian black tea. We have come for some quiet time as well as visiting the famous 250 year old and 400m wide Banyan tree. There are many little lakes and walkways through the park. Families have brought along their picknicks and are having lunch. We watch the big cargo ships come in on the Hoogly River to unload their goods. They look pretty impressive.
After a taxi ride back to the hotel and rest in the living room we are ready to head to Howrah station for our night train to Varanasi.
http://www.fairlawnhotel.com/
It is located close to all the places of interest and has an advantage that many places do not have, a garden! There is also a nice and almost private living room and lovely couches to relax in. The building was built in 1783 and is located just 2 minutes by foot from the New Market, a labyrinth of shops to fill your hearts desire. The house is filled with stories about the place with newspaper and magazines articles hanging on the walls. You always have something to look at and read. There are also many photos of important people who’ve stayed there like Patrick Swayze while filming The City of Joy, as well as Dominique La Pierre, the author of the same book.
We already know where we will have dinner tonight… at the famous Aaheli Restaurant renown for its Bengali food. It is located just around the corner from New Market inside the Peerless Inn Hotel.
http://www.peerlesshotels.com/aaheli.html
When we reach the floor where the restaurant is located and see that there are two. We decide to go inside the one called Oceanic. It is decorated just like in a boat with rounded windows and big aquariums. As we sit down we see that a huge buffet being prepared… yummy! We decide to go for the buffet and to be able to try taste a bit of everything. There is a salad buffet, mix of continental and many cold Bengali specialites. On the other side is a whole row of pearl shaped stainless steal pots containing warm dishes. There are at least 6 different fish dishes with accompagnements. Everything is delicious! Bengalis are known for their desserts as well and we agree, they are really tasty. Our favorite (found all over India) is the warm Gulab Jammun though. In case you want to make your own…
http://www.indianfoodforever.com/desserts/gulab-jamun.html
The next day we spend all day visiting the city. Our night train to Varanasi leaves only at 8 p.m. After breakfast we set off on foot towards the Flower Market and Howrah brigde. It is Sunday morning the city is slowly waking up. We walk along the outside of Maidan Park (where big cricket matches are held) towards what I remember as the direction of the Flower Market. On my last trip to Kolkata I also walked around and thought I had a good memory of the geography… The roads have gotten alot wider it seems with alot more traffic. After asking our way around we found ourselves on some quiet side streets lined with big colonial houses located in lovely garden surrounded by high gates and guards. We come into a street where everyone is washing themselves outside and either having their hair cut or beards shaven. It is something we are not used to in Europe where most of these things are done behind closed doors.
Kolkata used to be the capital of British India in 1772 and very well to do. Today you somehow feel as if time has stood still here. There is a special atmosphere looking at the dirty and crumbling colonial buildings, the local transport of ancient buses and trams along with a heavy grey cloud hanging over the city.
Finally after walking along the train tracks for a while we spot the entrance to the flower market. This is one of the poorer areas of Kolkata where families have their homes in shabby tents along the tracks just below Howrah Bridge. Vendors are negociating masses of flowers. There are huge jute bags full of bright orange and yellow marigolds. You can find anything from roses, dahlias, jasmine, etc. There are rose petals by the kilo, strands of orange and yellow marigolds for the temples and weddings... A very bustling and colorful visit!
At the end of the market we reach the 700m long Howrah Bridge. It impresses us for its steel architecture and size. Built in 1937 it is said that 150'000 vehicles and about 4 million passengers daily move across this bridge spanning over the Hoogly River. It is strictly guarded and very difficult to take photos of. It takes us a while to walk to the other side, but this way you can best understand its full size.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Howrah_Bridge
Once on the other side we hail a taxi and make our way to the botanical gardens located at the other end of the city. It is a haven of tranquility for visitors and people living in the crowded city of 14 million (2001 sensus). The gardens were founded in 1786 along the east and west of the Hoogly River. Interestingly it was here that the first trials were made for the famous Indian black tea. We have come for some quiet time as well as visiting the famous 250 year old and 400m wide Banyan tree. There are many little lakes and walkways through the park. Families have brought along their picknicks and are having lunch. We watch the big cargo ships come in on the Hoogly River to unload their goods. They look pretty impressive.
After a taxi ride back to the hotel and rest in the living room we are ready to head to Howrah station for our night train to Varanasi.
