This summer we decided to rent a house for a week with friends in Vézénobres, Gard Department in southern France. It took a while to find the right place but it was worth the effort. A comfortable 3-hour train ride brought us to Nîmes and from there it was only 30 minutes by car to the medieval village.
Vézénobres is located on the historical Regordane Way, used by merchants and pilgrims linking France’s Massif Central to the Rhône Valley. It was the fourth most important pilgrimage route to Christendom at the time. Today hikers use it as a point of departure on the long journey to Santiago de Compostela.
The perched village reveals its mysteries in its clock tower, covered passages, narrow alleys and ruins. Each house is made of stone and has its own story to tell. Vézénobres was an important stop during the second part of the religious wars between Catholics and Protestants. Even in the basement of our rented house remains of Protestants were found. After the Edict of Nantes was proclaimed in 1598 Huguenots were forbidden to bury their dead in a Catholic cemetery. The Calvinist Protestants devastated the old castle in 1628. The revocation of the Edict in 1685 drove an exodus of about 300,000 Protestant to the various neighbouring countries like Switzerland. In Geneva many traces of the their arrival can be seen in the old city. Due to their knowledge strong power in business and watch making they have been a great benefit in making the city prosper over the centuries.
The main street of Vézénobres has a bakery, tourist office, city hall, protestant church, art gallery and two restaurants. The lower part of the village has a school, Catholic Church, pharmacy and grocery store. I was surprised when the owner of the restaurant told me that a population of 1800 people live here year round.
The village was practically abandoned in the 1960’s. Today it has found its former glory again due to restorations by skilled craftsmen. Vézénobres is a great location for discovering the region.
