Day 3
(Cabane Susanfe 2110m – Col Susanfe 2495m –
Haute Cime 3257m – Pas d’Encel 2165m – Bonavau 1550m)
It is still dark when I get up, trying not to wake my snoring neighbors. I’ve decided to challenge myself today and try to reach the Haute Cime!
I am really happy to be hiking with a light backpack this morning, containing only a few snacks and water. It makes a huge difference, especially when you are climbing! I leave the cabin shortly after 6h30 as some of the others are only waking up and having breakfast.
Fernand and the Mexicans left just 30 minutes before me. I can see them in front of me on top of the hill. It is windy again as I reach the pass and see Fernand smiling at me. It is time for a short break and a cup of tea.
He is going very slowly to give father and son a rhythm to follow. Unfortunately for me it is a bit too slow and I pass in front of them. For this hike you have to pay close attention to the tracks; as there is no official path to the summit. Tiny, grey stones keep roll back down behind me with every step. It is good no one is hiking too close behind me. The summit looks still so far away… After 3 hours I am on the top and taking in the magnificent view of the entire mountain chain. To compare with yesterday’s view: from here you can see a good bit more of the famous Mont-Blanc. Behind me I can see down into to the Rhone Valley and the end of Lake Geneva.
There are only 4 people at the summit: a group of 4 English men and their son. I am glad the owner of the cabin convinced me into coming, I would have missed out on something! Fernand and Carlos soon reach the top as well smiling. Juan stayed behind further below, it was too though for him to continue. We congratulate each other and enjoy the view for a while, watching the sun rising from behind the mountains. Down below we can now see groups of people begin their ascension after a break at the pass.
There is not much space at the top and the path is not very wide, so I guess it is better to start making my way back down again. I could have stayed up there for hours, just watching the view... I am happy to have my hiking poles with me to balance myself, going downhill the same way is quite tricky. I was a bit worried about my trekking shoes and my knees, but everything is going well, I just need to take one step at a time and try not to fall. There is a reason some of my friends often compare me with a mountain goat!
I pass by hikers of all ages on their way up. Some look like they are having a hard time and some of their backpacks look way too heavy for such a hike. Later back down at Cabin Susanfe guests are enjoying the sun and for me it is time for lunch. I ask Fernand about his history as a guide. He tells me stories of the treks he has undertaken the past years in Nepal with Swiss clients. I noticed that he was a very quiet guide, only speaking when necessary. Now he seems to be opening up like a flower. I am amazed when he says that he used to run Cabane Susanfe every summer with his wife for the past 30 years!
Fernand and the Mexicans have get back to Champery this afternoon. As I am going the same way we all hike down to Bonavau together.
The scenery begins to change. The valley gets narrower the further we descend and soon we end up in a deep gorge. I am walking behind Juan and can see him wince in pain with each step. He seems to be having knee trouble… I offer him my hiking poles the second time today, which he refuses. He does take an aspirin from Fernand though, who seems to be surprised. It does not seem to get better as we reach Pas d’Encel, where you practically have to climb over each rock using your hands and knees…
This path and today’s summit is definitely not for beginners. I stay closely behind Juan, making sure he is ok and encouraging him. In moments like this I wonder if I should have gone ahead and taken the medium level mountain guide courses I was looking into a few years ago... Fernand and Carlos in front do not seem too preoccupied with Juan’s state. We are now in the open again and pass by past fields full of sheep. Soon we see a sign to Christine’s Chalet Bonavau, where I am spending the night.
We take a seat under a parasol and enjoy a beer together. Fernand seems to know everyone. Apparently Christine is an institution up here and people often stop to take a rest and enjoy a piece of cake or a cooling drink during a hike. No wonder, the place nicely decorated and I feel right at home. It is one of those places that make you want to stay a while. The others say good-bye and begin their last part of the hike to Champéry, another hour. I am happy not to be going anywhere else, I am too exhausted.
Apart from me there are only 2 other women, Célia and Amélie, who will be sharing my room tonight! It is great to just relax on the deck chairs set up in the garden and watch the view of the surrounding mountains before dinner. After a delicious portion of “croûtes de fromage” and salad we all agree that we won’t last too much longer and turn in for an early night. We will need all our physical energy for the 4th day of the tour.
